Sonepur Mela

Do you remember what it was like to be a child? To become fascinated with trivial things like cotton candy or a special toy– it is something that our adult mind refuses to comprehend for it is surrounded by ‘more important’ things now. In a life filled with deadlines and chaos, we have forgotten how to find joy in littlest of things. We make conscious efforts to break away from the routine by planning trips, going to movies, or may be spending a hefty balance on things we do not need. However, sometimes an unplanned event or incidence reminds us that in the current scenario, it is important to learn the art that comes naturally to children.

In November of 2022, while working on a research project, I traversed a familiar route to an annual fair which is held in Sonepur, Bihar. Sonepur, located at the confluence of Gandak and Ganga River, is a west-bank settlement of Gandak, unlike Hajipur which is on east-bank. Sonepur Mela also known as Harihar Kshetra Mela is a month-long fair which starts from Kartik Purnima. This fair is one of the largest cattle-fairs of the world and was originally organized in Hajipur after oblations were done at Hariharnath Mandir of Sonepur. Fair for elephants, cattle, and horses used to be held at different areas of Hajipur such as Hathsarganj, Dighi, and Anwarpur. Area near the present Ramchaura Mandir was used to host Meena Bazaar.

District Gazetteer of Saran and Muzaffarpur mentions that the fair is known to be organized since Later Mughal Period, however its history dates back to Mauryan Period. Records of the subas show that Arab horses, dumba sheep, camels, etc were brought for sale at this fair. Apart from cattle, luxury goods like carpets, perfume, and textiles were also popular in this month-long event. Later with the arrival of British, the mela became an excuse for entertainment of the officers who were deputed in the region. Two racecourses were built (one along the banks of Gandak River), along with a stable which was established by Lord Clive in 1803 C.E. The racecourses became a spot for horse races and polo meets and a bungalow (built by members of Patna Council for trade purposes) was converted into a dance club. However, in 1837 C.E. the racecourses were submerged due to a change in the course of Gandak and eventually the whole fair was shifted to Sonepur. But what’s the connection of this fair to the art of finding joy?

As a joint-household with seven children, it was our yearly ritual to visit Sonepur Mela, but the ritual stopped as life took its turn. Each one of us had to move out for higher studies and job, but the fair did not stop as with each year it continued to enchant several more. It was the old-world charm that I went searching for but instead I found the air heavy with nostalgia, for all the childhood memories came flooding back. Excitement of seeing elephants, horses, and other animals, walking in the bustling streets only after tightly holding hands of each other, marvelling at the giant Ferris wheel with the background tune of a flute (played by the famous bansuriwalas of the mela), relishing snacks while listening to the announcements at Meena Bazaar, enjoying different exhibitions or pradarshanees, and trying to be adventurous (and nervous) while watching the show at ‘well of death’ (or maut ka kuan, as it is morbidly advertised at fairs) – all of these memories and many more existed somewhere in my mind for I was in a constant state of DeJa’Vu this time.

However, the visit in 2022 did burst my bubble a little for as an adult, we tend to see the flaws as well which are innocently ignored by young minds. Like me, every child who has enjoyed this fair would not want to accept these flaws, but it can’t be overlooked when they are staring at your face. From the inhumane conditions in which the animals are kept to an almost non-existent waste management system for a month-long event, the situation is dire. The onus lies on the authorities and every other person visiting this fair to observe and tackle these shortcomings while we still have the time otherwise, we might lose an incredible piece of intangible heritage that defines the whole region.

I am ending this post on a note that I had really forgotten what it meant to find joy in little things, but reliving a part of my childhood in November of 2022 reminded me that we should not lose ourselves in the hustle of life. Finding time for ourselves, our family, and enjoying little things is what life is about, let’s not waste it!

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